Ingjaldssandur is a huge, lush valley facing the sea between Önundarfjörður and Dýrafjörður. Once home to dozens of farming folk, people used to get there by plane or boat. The rough mountain road into the valley is an attraction all of its own: for there are few more exciting or more scenic drives anywhere. These days the mountain-hemmed and beach-ended valley only has one working farm left. And lots of sheep. And a small church with an unusual Celtic cross on top. You may even be lucky enough to buy some of the farmer's excellent handicrafts, jewellery and woollen goods.